Petra Zeller Dotlacilová's study examines the development of theatrical costumes in France during the long 18th century, including the abandonment of long-established traditions, the need to negotiate with the dictates of fashion, and the translation of new ideas into material practice.

Using Louis-René Boquet (1717–1814) - the leading costume designer of the French court and the Paris Opera - as its lens, the book traces the development of costume reform from an aesthetics of propriety, defined by strict conventions, to an aesthetics of truthfulness, more open to ideas and inspiration from the visual arts and from real life.

Full of rich primary source material in the form of newspaper articles, letters, plays, librettos, drawings and images of garments, and illustrated in full colour throughout, the author shows how playwrights, theatre managers, designers, tailors and performers all contributed to the changes in the design and conception of costume during the 18th century.

A new costume studies key work has been born. Petra Zeller Dotlacilová’s foundational study on performance costume in 18th-century France delivers a thorough yet tremendously enjoyable combination of academic substance and critical scrutiny. This includes an exemplary use of equally beautiful and analytically relevant images, resonating with the written words. -- Astrid von Rosen, University of Gothenburg, Sweden
Beautifully illustrated and drawing from multiple archives, this volume is a rigorous and in-depth study of costume for performance through the bold designs of Louis-René Boquet. -- Donatella Barbieri, University of the Arts London, UK

Petra Zeller Dotlacilová holds a PhD in Dance Studies from the Academy of Performing Arts in Prague, Czech Republic, as well as a PhD in Theatre Studies from Stockholm University, Sweden. In her research, she specializes on European dance history and theatrical costume of 16th to 18th century. In particular, she explores aesthetic and material properties of costumes, international transfers in design and relations between garments and movement practices.