Shortlisted for the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award 2025

This multi-disciplinary study examines the exceptional Turkey red textile dyeing process and product. Prized for its brilliant colour and durability, yet notoriously difficult to produce, the textile was consumed locally and exported around the world. Considered one of the first instances of industrial espionage, the expansion of the Turkey red industry is closely linked to the Industrial Revolution and the emergence of a new global economy. Significant technological advances in chemistry and dyeing were motivated by the demands of Turkey red dyers and printers, who were located primarily in the west of Scotland, the north of England, and around Mulhouse, Switzerland.

This book explores the arc of the Turkey red industry, the evolution of the process through key producers and technical developments, the complicated printing process, and finishes with an examination of significant Turkey red collections and a selection of object case studies. The chemistry of the process is described in an accessible, contextual manner, highlighting the significance of the distinctive technique that yielded the best red attainable on cotton.

Drawing on both historical and contemporary study, Turkey Red presents significant new research on the material characterisation of this fascinating, eye-catching textile, and offers an in-depth historical example of the global effect of textile consumption.

A glossary, a list of chemicals, a detailed list of the footnotes which frequent the text, and an extensive list of references complete this very well-written book, which should be of much interest to the serious practising natural dyer, as well as many other textile enthusiasts. * Journal for Weavers, Spinners and Dyers *
Wertz manages to wrangle the long history, broad geographies, scientific intricacies, and varied applications of Turkey red into a highly readable and easily understood text – a feat as awe-inspiring as the dyeing process that is the book’s topic. * Courtney Wilder, University of Michigan, USA *
What a fantastic read! Mystery, time and magic have defined the process of creating bright red colours on cotton for centuries. Julie Wertz explains it very clearly in her beautifully illustrated book. A perfect read for both textile historians and modern-day enthusiasts of dyeing and colour. * Debbie Bamford, University of Leeds, UK *
Wertz’s study goes beyond existing works on the subject and brings to a modern audience a clear and informative account of how and why this colour was so successful. * Textiles Asia *

Julie Wertz is Beal Family Postgraduate Fellow in Conservation Science at Harvard Art Museums, USA.